The Super Soft Wilde Love Baby Sweater!

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I think you all know I became a grandma late May this year, and my grandson inspired this sweater that came out so nice I thought I would share the pattern with you 🙂

Warning for long post with a lot of ranting. Just scroll if you are eager for the pattern, and do not forget about the Print Friendly button that allows you to print the pattern and edit out any info you do not want printed 🙂

My grandson’s first name is Wilde, which is pronounced something like Villdé. This is a Swedish male name but in Norway it is a female name.

His second name is Love, pronounced something like Loové. Love is actually an old Swedish male name dating back to 1000 years AC and is found on rune stones across Sweden.

As Swedish as these both names are the combination works quite well in English, don’t you think? And of course this had to be the Wilde Love Sweater!

All Swedes grow up with Pippi Longstocking (you do know she is Swedish, right?) and she wears an iconic sweater in the movies.

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There are loads of patterns for this sweater, both knitted and crocheted online and when I found a pattern featuring my favourite yarn Drops Muskat I had to try it.

I was really pleased with the result except for the seams that became very bulky and hard as the sweater was made in pieces and sewn together. There was no way it could be comfortable for a baby!

So I decided to see if there was a way to make the sweater in the rounds instead to avoid hard seams. I had also fallen in love with the ribbing on this blanket when I made it, and wanted ribbing on this sweater. I think it gives a nice finish, what do you think?

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There were pieces that had to be joined and I thought I would go with the flat zipper join as I think it is super clean and stylish and also would create a soft join. I learned this join when making the Last Dance on the Beach CAL a few years ago, and have used to join all my blankets since.  This close up is of the join arm-body, how clean looking is that?!?

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It actually worked really well and the sweater was as soft and smooth as I wanted it to be.

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Same color yarn as first one, but different lightning

Wilde tries his sweater for the first time, and I think he likes it 🙂 He might also be the cutest baby on earth 🙂

 

I decided it needed a few tweaks, like using a smaller size of hook for the ribbing, and started on a new one, writing down the pattern and taking photos while working.

The size I made is approximately 4 months but as the pieces are straight I think it would be quite easy to adapt the number of stitches and rounds/ rows to make it smaller or larger.

I used my favorite yarn, Drops Muskat, which is a pure cotton yarn. But you could use another yarn and appropriate hook, keeping in mind this might affect size.

I think an adventurous beginner would be able to follow the pattern as there are loads of photos and also links to tutorials for special stitches.

A special thanks to Anna Sandvik who has tested the pattern. I am not a proffesional pattern writer so if you spot any errors please let me know so I can correct.

You find the pattern here on Ravelry. Don’t forget to mark it as a favorite and add it to your library so you don’t loose it 🙂

My patterns are always free, but you would make me super happy if you donated whatever you think the pattern is worth to your favorite charity organization!

Pattern for the Wilde Love Sweater

Size

Approximately 4 months

Yarn

Drops Muskat

Color A: 3 balls (base color) I used no 08 for both sweaters

Color B: 1 ball (contrast color) I used no 36 for blue striped sweater and 24 for brown-yellow striped one

Color C: 1 ball (contrast color) I used no 76 for blue striped sweater and no 30 for brown-yellow striped one

If you only go with base color and 1 contrast, 1 ball of contrast color will be enough.

 

Hooks

No 4

No 5

 

Abbreviations

st- stitch

ch- chain

sl- slip stitch

sc- single crochet

blsc- back loop single crochet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phf7Nj0_LJg

chsp- chain space

 

Special stitches

Sc2tog (=single crochet 2 together)

Insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clQQLsyn9Ig

Sc3tog (= single crochet 3 together)

Insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IyZJOeC7Kc

 

Tutorial for joining method

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55rgdv–2Bs

 

Bottom Ribbing

Hook No 4

Hints for bottom ribbing:

When working last blsc of every row, insert hook in both back loop and “back bump” of stitch.

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First row of blsc

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Second row of blsc

Blsc have a tendency to pull stitches and by doing this on last stitch of every row the edges are sturdier and will look nicer.

When joining bottom ribbing to form a ring you can decide

whether to join by crocheting through both loops of each piece or just 1 loop from every piece. I chose to work through both loops to create a sturdier join, even though it gets a bit thicker.

Starting chain: Ch 7

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Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook. Sc in every stitch of row. (6 sc)

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Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as stitch). Turn. Blsc in every stitch of row. (6 blsc)

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Row 3-98: Repeat row 2.

Finished piece should look like this:

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Decide what you think is front and back of your piece. (Top part in pic below will be bottom edge of sweater). Fold in half lengthwise, right sides facing, and slip stitch together with 6 sl so bottom ribbing forms a ring.

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Turn piece so right side is facing outwards

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Body

Hints for body:

The body is worked in rounds up until part where arms will be inserted. Even though the body is worked in rounds we will turn the work after each completed round!

You can choose to cut yarn and weave in ends in every color change, or be lazy as me and carry the yarn with you. If carrying the yarn make sure you keep the yarn on wrong side of sweater. I would also recommend securing the yarn you carry by twisting the resting yarn around your working yarn every round. If you do this after making the ch 1 starting every round the resting yarn will not show up very much on right side of work.

I had some trouble finding the last chsp of each round, and accidentally started to increase my rounds. But inserting a stitch marker in first chsp of round (which will be the last chsp of next round helped me. Just move the stitch marker as you go.

Round 1: Still using hook no 4, ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Sc 98 evenly around bottom ribbing. Join with sl to first sc of round.

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Round 2: Switch to hook no 5. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). TURN! * 1sc, ch1, skip 1 st *.

Repeat * – * rest of round. Join to first sc of round with sl.

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Round 3: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch). TURN. * 1sc in chsp, ch 1 *.

Repeat * – * rest of round. Join to first sc of round with a sl.

Round 4: Repeat round 3.

Round 5: Change to color B. Repeat Round 3.

Round 6: Repeat round 3.

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Round 6 complete. Back side of work showing

Round 7: Change to color A. Repeat round 3.

Round 8-12: Repeat round 3.

Round 13: Change to color C. Repeat round 3.

Round 14: Repeat round 3.

Round 15: Change to color A. Repeat round 3.

Round 16-20: Repeat round 3.

Round 21: Change to color B. Repeat round 3.

Round 22: repeat round 3.

Round 23: Change to color A. Repeat round 3.

Round 24-28: Repeat round 3.

Now it is time for backside and front side to make space to insert arms, and we start crocheting back and forth.

Backside

We want the first and last stitch of every row to be a sc to make the piece sturdy.

Row 1: Switch to color C. Ch 1. TURN. * Sc in chsp, ch 1 *. * Repeat * – * 23 times. (25 sc, 24 chsp).

Row 2: Ch 1. TURN. Sc in first sc.  * Sc in chsp, ch 1 *. Repeat * – * until last chsp. Sc in last chsp, sc in last sc. Cut working yarn.

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Row 1 and 2 of backside complete

Row 3: Switch to color A. Ch 1. TURN. Sc in first sc. * Ch 1, sc in chsp *.  Repeat * – * until last chsp. Sc in last chsp, ch 1,skip 1 st,  sc in last sc.

Row 4: Ch 1. TURN.  Sc in first sc. * Sc in chsp, ch 1 *. Repeat * – * until last chsp. Sc in last chsp, sc inlast sch.

Row 5: Repeat row 3 but do not change color of yarn.

Row 6: Repeat row 4.

Row 7-8: Repeat Row 5 and 6.

Row 9: Switch to color B. Repeat row 3.

Row 10: Repeat row 4. Cut working yarn.

Row 11: Switch to color A. Repeat row 3.

Row 12: Repeat row 4.

Row 13-14: Repeat row 5 and 6.

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Work from front side, row 14 complete

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Work from backside, row 14 complete

Right shoulder

Row 15: Ch 1. TURN. Sc in first sc. *Ch 1, sc in scsp *. Repeat * – * 6 times. (8 sc, 7 chsp).

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Row 16: Ch 1. TURN. Sc in every sc and every chsp rest of row. (15 sc) Fasten off yarn.

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Left shoulder

Start on wrong side of work in 10:th chsp from right shoulder. See stitch marker for starting point.

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Row 15: Attach color A. Ch1, sc in same chsp. Ch 1, sc in chsp until last chsp. Sc in chsp, sc in last sc. (8 sc, 7 chsp)

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Row 16: Ch 1. TURN. Sc in every sc and every chsp of row. (15 sc)  Fasten off yarn.

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Back shoulders done, piece seen from frontside

Front side

Row 1: Work from backside of work. See stitch marker in picture above where first stitch will go.

Attach color A to first unworked stitch (which should be a sc) after row 1 backside by ch 1 and sc in same stitch.

Sc in chsp, ch 1 until last chsp. Sc in last chsp, sc in last stitch (which should be an sc.)  (26 sc, 23 chsp)

Row 2: Ch 1. TURN. Sc in first sc. Ch 1, sc in chsp until last chsp. Sc in last chsp, skip 1 st, sc in last sc. Cut working yarn.

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Row 1 and 2 front side complete

Row 3: Switch to color A. Ch 1. TURN. Sc in first sc. Sc in chsp, ch 1 until last chsp. Sc in chsp, sc in last ch.

Row 4: Ch 1. TURN. Sc in first Sc. Ch 1, sc in chsp until last chsp. Sc in last chsp, ch1, sc in last sc.

Time to split the front in two to create the split down front and give room for the head. We start with the right side.

Left side front

Find the middle sc and place a stitch marker in it.

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Row 5: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in first sc. Sc in chsp, ch 1 until last chsp before stitch marker. Sc in last chsp before stitch marker.

Row 6: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in first sc. Sc in chsp, ch 1 until last chsp. Sc in chsp, ch 1, sc in last sc.

Row 7. Ch 1. Turn. Sc in first sc. Sc in chsp, ch 1 until last chsp. Sc in chsp, ch 1, sc in last sc.

Row 8: Repeat row 6.

Row 9: Switch to color B. Repeat row 7.

Row 10: Repeat row 6.

Row 11: Switch to color A. Repeat row 7.

Row 12: Repeat row 6.

Row 13: Repeat row 7.

Row 14: Repeat row 6.

Row 15: Repeat row 7.

Row 16: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in every sc and every chsp until end of row. Do not cut yarn!

 

Left shoulder joining

This method creates a very smooth, stylish join. It is a bit fidgety but totally worth it. You can of course stitch your work together or use any joining method you prefer.

Hint: When joining keep your yarn under your work to create the smooth join.

Turn work so you have back side facing you. Keep hook inserted. Place working yarn in between front and back.

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Insert hook in back loop of first sc of backside, hook going in from top to bottom, downwards.

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Insert hook in back loop of first sc (the one facing you) of front side, again hook going from top to bottom, downwards.

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Yarn over hook and pull through all loops on hook, making a slipstitch.

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Now continue slipstitching until you run out of stitches on back piece, working the back loop, top to bottom, of each sc, and taking care to keep working yarn underneath your work.

When last stitch is joined, cut working yarn and pull through hook.

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Piece from front with left side complete and shoulder joined

Right side front

To get stitches in right direction we need to start first row from middle of front, working backside of front.

Row 5: Join color A pulling up a loop and ch 1 in first chsp after stitch marker. Sc in same chsp.  Ch 1, sc in chsp until last chsp of row. Ch 1, sc in last chsp, sc in last ch.

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Row 6:  Ch 1. Turn. Sc in first sc. Ch 1, sc in chsp until last chsp of row. Sc in last chsp, sc in last sc.

Row 7:  Repeat row 6.

Row 8: Repeat row 6.

Row 9: Switch to color B. Repeat row 6.

Row 10: Repeat row 6.

Row 11: Switch to color A. Repeat row 6.

Row 12: Repeat row 6.

Row 13: Repeat row 6.

Row 14: Repeat row 6.

Row 15: Repeat row 6.

Row 16: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in every sc and every chsp rest of row. Fasten off (you want to work join of shoulder from outside and in and therefore have to fasten off this time.)

A tip is to weave in all ends now before continuing.

Right shoulder joining

Now join left shoulder the same way as right working from outside to middle of sweater. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Edging the neck line

You can do this now, or wait until sweater is complete.

Join color A to middle of backside neck hole with a standing sc. Sc evenly around the edge of neck hole, doing a sc2tog in “inwards” corners, and 3 sc in same stitch in “outside” corners. For middle front slit I made sc2tog with last leg of first one and first leg of second one in middle stitch, but you need to look at your work and see what looks good. You might even prefer a sc3tog for this part.

Join last st to first with a sl, fasten off and weave in ends.

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3 sc in same st for outer corner

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2sctog for inner corner between neck and left back shoulder

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Front slit

Edging the sleeve holes

The arms will be crocheted bottom to top and we need something to attach them to. Therefore we will line the sleeve holes with a round of sc so we can join the arms to the sweater the same way we joined the shoulders.

Evenly crochet 36 sc around each sleeve hole. Join with a sl, fasten off and weave in ends.

I recommend you give some thought to where you start your sc’s. I started at the back almost to the bottom of sleeve hole where the join  will be the least visible.

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Piece with neck and arm holes edged, seen from front

Arms

The arms are made the same way as the body so I will not specify a pattern for them, up until last row.

Start by making the bottom ribbing same way as for the  body, but only 36 rows. Use hook no 4. Join edging to a ring same way as body.

Still using hook no 4, now evenly crochet 36 sc around the edge. Join with a sl.

Switch to hook no 5. Crochet 25 rounds with color changes as in body (do not forget to TURN), and for round 26 you do a sc in every sc and every chsp. Do not cut yarn.

Join arm to body using same method as when joining shoulders. Again, think a little bit of where you start. I started at the same place as I started the edging of sleeve hole.

Please note in pics below that I apparently cannot count. There are not enough rounds of the sleeve in the pic as I missed 1 round in second part of base color L  I did not notice until arm was fastended to body and I took the pics, and I do not think it will make a huge difference in size I decided to just go with it.

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Arm finished

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Close up of joined arm

Repeat for second arm. Fasten off and weave in all ends. You are done, good job!

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Forgot to take a pic of the finnished yellow- brown one so here is the blue striped

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2 thoughts on “The Super Soft Wilde Love Baby Sweater!

  1. Wow. Very nice tutorial. Love both the pictures and written explanations/hints. I think it is definitely for a more advanced crocheter but we shall see. I will be starting this for my granddaughter who is 14 months old so I will write down the increases so I won’t get lost. Thank you for sharing your beautiful work.

    Like

    • I would love to see your finished projects, and if it works out for you in size I could add the size you are making if you want to share your stitch count and increases of rounds!

      Like

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