Mandalastyle Placemats 2.0 with no flaring!

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Do you like my Mandala Style Placemats but have issues with the flaring edges? So did I… Therefore, I proudly present: Mandala Style Placemats with no flaring issues!

Lots of text here, feel free to scroll to actual pattern if you do not want to listen to me rambling :-). You might want to cast a glance towards the end of introduction though, there will be some usefull tips there!

When I made my first place mats I really had no idea what I was doing. I did not have the knowledge on how to increase rounds correctly and just increased by feeling. And of course the result showed this, and they had an issue with edges that flared a bit. I was still very happy with them and when I posted pics of them online I got a lot of requests for the pattern so I wrote it up and posted it.

The pattern has become somewhat popular and there are a lot of links to it out there, so I have thougt for a long time that I really should try to update it and get rid of the flaring issues. I have developed my crochet skills since then and started to understand a bit on how you should increase and such.

But I really hate weaving in ends and there are A LOT of ends to weave in making these I tell you. So I have postphoned and postphoned the project.

As my daughter has renovated her kitchen she really wanted me to make her placemats with purple as accent color. So I decided to give it a go and after some calculating, froggin, more calculating and more frogging I think I am really happy with the result once again!

This said, these placemats need a good wet block to be totally flat.

Want a stylish matching trivet to go with your placemats? Here is my pattern for Mandala Styel Tiviet Cover!

Oh, I also remembered to weight the yarn so the amount of yarn (in grams) you need for one placemat is stated in the pattern. I am really proud of remembering this 🙂

The first 7 rounds are from  Little Spring Mandala by  Barbara Smith. You need to visit her page by the link and use her pattern for those rounds. I only state which colors I have used and show you pics of the rounds in my pattern.

The rest of my pattern builds on her pattern and is basically just her pattern grown bigger. So I take this opportunity to thank Barbara for creating that goregous pattern!

I use the cotton yarn  Catania and hook no3,5, which makes the placemat about 37 cm in diameter. Whith different yarn and different hook you will get a differnt result, but this pattern lends itself to pretty much the yarn and hook of your choice.

I use four colors but again, use as few or as many as you want!

The weaving in of ends… Since you change color every round, some rounds are “double” and you have rounds of surface crochet ontop of that there are loads of ends to weave in. Concider yourself warned!

I have tried, and really tried, to do this a lazier way and carry the yarn with me, but it does not look good in my mind. And the sole purpose of a place mat is to look good, right?

To avoid getting all my ends in one place on back I turn my work after every round, so the ends of last round are “3 o’clock” and I start the new round at “12 o’clock”. This is what my wrong side of work looked like before the tedious weaving in of ends:

Writing this pattern I go with the lazy way and reuse rounds and images that have not changed. Therefore the old images have turqoise as accent color and new images purple as accent color. And I think you can see my photo technique has improved as well 🙂

Color and number of the turqouise shade is in brackets for color A in pattern.

Number of stitches and chainspaces for each round are stated in brackets after round.

You know you can print a copy of this pattern using Printfriendly, right? And it gives you the possibility to edit out text and pics you do not want to print. Really handy!

And do not forget to like and save the pattern on Ravelry so you can find it easily again 🙂

Pattern for Mandalastyle Placemats 2.0

Yarn

 

A:  Lavender 226    (Aqua 397)

B: Charcoal 393

C: Silver 172

D: Grey 242

Yarn Amount needed for 1 placemat

A: 15 grams

B: 30 grams

C: 23 grams

D: 20 grams

Please bear in mind tension is individual so you might need more (or less) yarn than I do.

Hook number

3,5

Size Approximately

Ca 37 cm in diameter

Special Stiches and Techniques

Standing Stitches

All rounds except for round 1 starts with a standing sc, standing dc or standing 3dctog. This will not be specified in pattern.

You start all rounds except for round 1 in st or chsp of your choice.

Here you find tutorials for standing sc and standing dc. When you know your standing dc you can easily make a standing 3dctog.

Tutorial for standing sc

Tutorial for standing dc

 

Invisible Join

All rounds that concist of only dc will look the best if you start them with a standing dc and join them wit an invisible join. This way no one is going to be able to tell where your round starts or ends.

For the other rounds the joins will be hidden by the next rounds so you can join them wit a slip stitch.

 

Tutorial for Invisible Join

3 double crochets together (3dctog):

Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch (or chain space), yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull strough 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over,  pull through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull throuhg all loops on hook. Done!

 

If you click the pics they will show bigger.

 

Abbreviations (US terminology)

R- round

St- stitch

ch- chain

Sl- slip stitch

Sc- single crochet

Dc- double crochet

Chsp- chain space

3sttills- 3 stolpar tillsammans

 

Pattern

For round  1-7 follow this pattern, Little Spring Mandala, with colour changes as indicated below.

R 1: Colour A

 

R 2: Colour B

 

R 3: Colour C

 

R 4: Colour B

 

 

R 5: Colour A

You can leave the yarntail on front of the crochet, in the end of the pattern I will show you a way to make the join of this round invisible.

Hint: I usually wait with round 5 until I have completed the round coming after.

 

R 6:a: Colour D

R 6:b: Colour C

Sorry for bad colour on 3 last pics and pic for row 7, they were taken in the evening and we are loosing light in Sweden 🙂 For clearer pics of on how to make row 6:a and 6.b, se round 12:a and 12:b.

 

R 7: Colour A

 

R 8: Color B.

Repeat round 5.

 

R 9: Color C:

This round is worked into round 7.

3dctog in any st. * Ch 2. Skip 1 st. 3dctog in next st.  *

Repeat * – * rest of round. End round with ch 2. Join with sl in first 3dctog. Break yarn.  (36 3dctog, 36 chsp)

 

R 10: Color D:

* 3 dc in chsp. 3 dc in next chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. *

Repeat* – * rest of round. Join with  invisible join. Break yarn. (96 dc)

See the sequence of st that is repeated in pic below.

 

 

R 11: Color C:

Repeat round 5.

 

R 12:1: Color A:

Repeat round  6:1. (48 dc, 48 chsp)

 

R 12:2: Color C:

Repeat  6:2. (48 dc, 48 chsp)

 

R 13: ColorB:

* 2 dc in  chsp 12:1 and 12:2 (same way as for round 7). 3 dc in next chsp. *

Repeat * – * rest of round. Join with  invisible join. Break yarn . ( 120 dc)

See sequence repeated in pic below.

 

R 14: Color D:

Repeat round 5.

 

R 15: Color C:

Repeat round 9. (60 3dctog, 60 chsp)

 

R 16: Color A:

* 2 dc in chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. 3 st in next chsp. 2 st in next chsp. 3 st in next chsp. *

Repeat* – * rest of round. Join with invisible join. Break yarn. (144 dc)

See sequence repeated in pic below.

 

R 17: Color B:

Repeat round 5.

 

R 18:1: Color D:

Repeat round  6:1. (72 dc, 72 chsp)

 

R 18:2: Color C:

Repeat  6:2. (72 dc, 72 chsp)

 

R 19: Color B:

* 2 dc in chsp, 2 dc in next chsp, 3 dc in next chsp. *

Repeat* – * rest of round. Join with  invisible join and break yarn. (168 dc)

See sequence repeated in pic below.

 

R 20: Color A:

Repeat round 5.

 

R 21: Color C:

Repeat round  9. (84 3dctog, 84 chsp)

 

R 22: Color D:

* 2 dc in chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. 3 in next chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. 3 dc in next chsp. * This sequence stretches over 7 chsp and goes like this in number of dc for each chsp: 2, 2, 2,3, 2, 2, 3

Repeat* – * rest of round. Join with invisible join and break yarn. (192 dc)

See sequence repeated in pic below.

 

R 23: Color C:

Repeat round 5.

 

R 24:1: Color A:

Repeat round  6:1. (96 dc, 96 chsp)

 

R 24:2: Color B:

Repeat round  6:2. (96 dc, 96 chsp)

(I accidentally switched the colours for these rounds in the place mat I was crocheting for the new pics, you can see this in pic for 25.)

 

R 25: Color D:

* 2 dc in chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. 2 dc in next chsp. 3 dc in next chsp. *

Repeat * – * rest of round. Join with invisible join. Break yarn. (216 dc)

See sequence repeated in pic below.

 

R 26: Color B:

Repeat round 5.

Done!

All that is left to do is weaving in ends and blocking your placemat!

Here is a method to fasten of end on surface of crochet from row 5 to make the join invisible:

Thread yarn on needle and insert needle under the first sl st of round, from middle and out. Now insert needle in loop of last sl st of round and pull yarn out on the back of your work. You now basically have sewn a slipstitch and it is impossible to tell where round starts and ends!

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