A couple of years ago I spent some weeks in a beautiful Norwegian city called Trondheim, working as a nurse. In my free time I explored the city and surroundings and I found a fabulous yarn store. Norway is famous for wool yarn and knitting, and I brought home some gorgeous Norwegian wool yarn. This Christmas I finally got to try some of it out and the Trondheim Shawl was born. I am so happy with the result I want to share the pattern with you guys!The yarn is from Viking Garn and called Nordlys (Northern Light). The balls are 100 gr/ 5 oz and length of yarn is 350 m / 385 yd. It is soft and fabulous, not itchy at all! The quality is 75 % wool and 25 % nylon which makes it durable. And best of all, it is gradiant and comes in a range of different colours, all equally beautiful.
So I knew I wanted to make a project that would really show of my yarn. I wanted to make a shawl with an interesting pattern but was not looking for an intricate lacy pattern. I googled but could not find what I wanted at all.
Then I came to think about the Penelope Shawl by Caroline Christmas. I have made this shawl in thicker yarn and like the pattern. It is a nice pattern, but I wanted something more to happen in my shawl, a bit of structure to add interest. Maybe I could use it as a start and develop it? I gave it a try, and settled on adding rows of back post double crochets (technically they are front post crochets since they are made with wrong side facing you). And I love the result!
I really like the colours of this yarn, the beige that slowly transforms to brown with blues inbetween creats a harmony. I have some balls of white-gray-black and white-pink-corall-brown waiting for me and I can’t wait to see if they turn out equally amazing?
This project is great since you can use whatever yarn you want, just addapt hook size to your yarn and stop crocheting when your shawl has the size you want. Mine has 38 rows + finishing row.
I did not want to have a frilly finishing row on my shawl so I ended it with a simple row of single crochets in back loop and a small picot at the point of the shawl, but you can add whichever border you want.
Before we start I have a small tip for you: For some reason I allways have trouble with my stitch count when making shawls. For this one I count the number of holes on each side when doing the mesh row, and make sure I have an equal amount of holes on each side, sometimes fudging it a bit to make it happen. That way I know my stich count is on the spot at least every third row, even if I have missed a stitch or two in the other rows.
Here is a link to the pattern on Ravelry so you can add it to your library and favourites 🙂
And if you spot something unclear or mistakes in the pattern, please let me know so I can correct it!
Update: I tweaked the pattern just a little to make it easier, and due to recieving some questions decided to add some pics of rows. To make each stitch in these pics easy to see I used one color yarn.
The Trondheim Shawl
st = stitch
slst = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
ch sp = chain space
fpdc = front post double crochet
Yarn: Your choice. I used Viking Nordlys no 922, 2 balls of 100 gr
Hook: Your choice, I used no 7 for my shawl. You do not want the fabric to dense or it will not drape nicely
Scissors and a needle to weave in ends
Row 1: Ch 5 and contect into a circle with a sl st in first ch made. Ch 3 (counts as first dc in this and all rows). 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in ring. Turn. (6 dc, 1 chainspace (chsp))
Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st. 1 dc in every st until ch sp. In ch sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 1 dc in every st until last st. 3 dc in last st. Turn. (14 dc, 1 chsp)
Row3: Ch 4 (=1 dc + ch 1). Dc in first st. (ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st) until ch sp. (ch 1,dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1) in ch sp. Dc in next st. (Ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next st) until end of row. Ch 1 and dc in last st. (You will be making 2 dc in last st, just as there are 2 dc (or rather a ch 4 and a dc in first st.) Turn. (12 dc, 10 chsp with 1 ch, 1 chsp with 2 ch in middle)
Row 4:Ch 3, 2 dc in same st. Dc in every ch 1 sp and dcuntil ch 2 sp. In ch 2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Dc in every dc and ch 1 sp until last st. In last st 3 dc. Turn. ( 30 dc, 1 chsp in middle)
Row 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in st. 1 fpdc in next stitch(or you could make them back post dc if you are more comfortable with that, it does not really matter on which side the ridges turn out as long as all ridges are on same side). Fpdc in every st until ch sp. In ch sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Fpdc in every st until last st. 3 dc in last st.. Turn. (10 regular dc (3 in beginning of row, 3 in end of row, 4 in middle chsp, 28 fpdc, 1 chsp in middle)
Row 6: Ch 4, dc in first st. (Ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st) until ch sp. In ch sp (ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1). Dc in next st. (ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st) until end of row. Ch 1, dc in last st. Turn.(24 dc, 22 chsp with 1 ch, 1 chsp with 2 ch in middle)
Row 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st. Dc in every ch 1 sp and dcuntil ch 2 sp. In ch 2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Dc in every dc and ch 1 sp until last st. In last st 3 dc. Turn. (54 dc, 1 chsp in middle)
Row 8: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st. Dc in every st until ch sp. In ch 2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Dc in every ch 1 sp and st until last st. 3 dc in last st. Turn. (62 dc, 1 chsp in middle)
Repeat row 3-8 until desired lenght. Finnish with row 8 (or any other row you fancy 🙂 ).
Finnishing Row: Ch 1. Sc in back loop of first st, and in every st until ch sp (make sure you are working with right side of shawl turned towards you). In ch sp ( sc, ch 3, sl st in first ch made to form a picot, 1 sc). Sc in back loop until end of row.
If you have used 2 balls of yarn to avoid pooling you can crochet a row of sc at top of shawl to hide yarn you have carried with you between rows. Just crochet over yarn. Make sure you crochet this row loosely to not loose elasticity of shawl.
Cut yarn and weave in ends. Done!
If you post a pic of your shawl at my facebook page Stitches and Supper and hashtag your pics on social media with #stitchesandsupper you make me very happy 🙂
And you know you can make a very neat pdf of this pattern using Print Friendly, don’t you?
Good luck with your project!